A Different Kind Of Hem

18 Jul

A shirt that Mom was working on earlier in the week caught my attention because of the way it called to hem the neckline and sleeves.

She was working on a pattern from Kwik Sew (3844). I don’t know if it is because I am a beginner sewer or not but I am not a fan of hemming. I can never seem to finish with a seamless finish. It either buckles on me or is wavy or uneven in fold. So I like finding interesting ways other than the double fold and sew method.

Mom's Kwik Sew Shirt 3844

Mom's Kwik Sew Shirt 3844

When I saw her finished shirt I immediately requested that she show me how to do this so I could write a tip and trick blog on this new-to-me method.

For demo purposes we’re going to cut 2” by 20” strips of fabric. When doing this on your garment you would be cutting the same length as the hem you are doing (neckline, armholes, bottom hem etc.). You would most likely use the same fabric as the garment fabric but again for demonstration reasons I choose 2 different colours so you could see better what is going on.

Brown fabric is neckline and white would be neckband.

cutting neckline and neckband

Neckline and Neckband being cut for Demo

Sew the brown fabric right sides together to make it represent the neckline.

Sewn neckline

Sewn Neckline

Then take the neckband and sew it right sides together. Making sure you use the same seam allowance as you did for the rest of the garment.

Sewn Neckline and Neckband

Sewn Neckline and Neckband

Take the neckband and fold wrong sides together, match raw edges, press so the fold holds!

Fold Wrong Sides Together Matching Raw Edges

Fold Wrong Sides Together Matching Raw Edges

Take the neckband and pin to neckline right sides together and raw edges together. Sew them together.

Sew Neckline and Neckband Together

Sew Neckline and Neckband Together

Press seam to the front and back of the shirt. And voila! You have a great looking finished edge! You can also top stitch it to make sure it lies perfectly flat.

Finished Hem Demo

Finished Hem Demo

I was really impressed with this finishing option! Actually I think one could be very creative with this! As you can see in the image above Mom tried it around her arm to try and give a better visual of what the finished product would look like. I referred to it as a neckline the entire tutorial but this can be done with armholes and I can’t see why it can’t be done with the bottom of a garment as well!

One last thing I would recommend is finishing your raw edges to give the finished product a more durable look and feel. You can do this using an overcast or a zigzag stitch on your machine or as seen below with a serger.

Finished Raw Edges

Finished Raw Edges


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